Overall, 2022 was a good to great growing year. Rain was below average again, but there’d been a real soaker in December – enough to saturate the vineyards, which made all the difference. It keeps the vines out of panic mode, which was the story in ’21, when the fruit was lovely, but there was about 50% less of it. In ’22, the weather was moderate and relatively even – basically smoke free with ideal temperatures. Harvest began very early on the morning of August 27 with the Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot Rosé. On September 1, the red Merlot arrived in a field blend with 357 pounds of Grenache, the tiny first crop from the Grenache in our new test block of Rhône varietals. On the 7th, the Cabernet Sauvignon came in from the Los Ricos and Pool vineyards (the Pool Block is part of the Ranch Cabernet) along with the Cabernet Franc. But by this time, forecasts were predicting alarmingly high temperatures from September 11 through 15. Based on our experience with a similar “heat event” in 2017, Diana knew the only outcome from the temperatures we were looking at would be dehydration, with little true ripening continuing after they came down. Fortunately, Block C, which gives us The Brothers Vineyard Cabernet, had entered the window, so it came in the overnight of the 9th-10th. Two nights later, we finished up with the Cabernet Sauvignon from the Lost Orchard (also a part of the Ranch Cabernet), along with the Petit Verdot and the test block of Mourvèdre. By the grace of God, these final blocks were also ready, like runners just over the line, and everything was in the cellar by the time the heatwave went into warp mode on September 12 (the high was on the 13th when it hit 116F). For our fruit, not only was the quality what we were looking for, but the quantity as well – we harvested a total of 38 tons, up from the 30 tons we managed in 2021. While less than our rolling average of 45 tons, we were delighted and relieved, given the minefield that global warming is laying for farmers everywhere.
The grapes are beginning to show color -- what's called veraison. So far only a few percent of the berries have turned, but it's earlier than usual, even in these days of worrisome climate change/global warming, or whatever euphemism best fits the consequences of not taking sufficient care of our planet. The good news is, so far, the weather has been simply ideal for growing grapes in the Napa Valley. But for the past five or six years, it's the period from now to the first winter rains when all of the challenging cards have been dealt, so we're counting no chickens.
We're now fully organic and much of our vineyard surface is no-till, so besides managing the vines, we also have to manage the gopher population. As with most farming challenges, the best way to manage gophers is to let the natural world fall into balance. For us this means owls, which we always have; same with hawks; and there's always one carnivore. This year, it's a family of red foxes living in the woods within the fences surrounding the Brothers and Lost Orchard vineyards. We recently spied the mother playing with her three kits beside the Sunninghill Sauvignon Blanc block in the Lost Orchard. They appeared to be really well fed.
The vineyards are much healthier than they were at this time last year. This shot was taken in late April – since then, the green shoots have lengthened to 18” or more, clusters have finished forming, and bloom is underway – we can catch the subtle perfume of grape flowering as we walk the blocks. The Merlot and Cabernet Franc are the farthest along, almost everything at or past full bloom; the Cabernet Sauvignon is in the middle; and the Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc bring up the chronological rear, as it should be. Last year, the drought was so severe, we never had a storm which fully saturated the soil, so the vines were very careful not to overextend themselves. The quality turned out to be superb, but the yield was just over 50% of average. The shot below shows the Cabernet Franc this morning. So far this year, it all looks good – but farming is farming and only time will tell.
We're beginning to release our red wines from the 2018 vintage, so I want to share my impressions of the vintage.
The 2018 spring was mild with just enough rain accumulating in the ground over winter. Both bud break and flowering occurred a bit late, under even weather conditions of abundant filtered light creating plentiful and even fruit set. This filtered light was due to wildfires elsewhere in the state, creating a layer of smoke very far up in the atmosphere which reduced UV rays by 30% -- but which never reached ground level to interact with the fruit. The relatively mild summer and autumn, with few days above 100 degrees, and even, moderate temperatures, allowed for slow and gentle ripening. (Click here for an excellent graphic summary of the 2018 weather put out by the Napa Vintners.)
Harvest was late and drawn out, for the red varieties extending from the 20th of September for our Merlot to the 14th of October for our Petit Verdot. The berries and clusters were large, juicy, and perfectly healthy and ripe.
The devastation of the 2018 wildfires aside, the vintage is a complete knockout. These are some of the brightest, most aromatically intense wines Napa has seen in almost a decade, with a finesse and a silkiness of tannins unmatched in recent memory.
Our 2018 Merlot came out last fall; the '18 Cabernet Franc has just come out; look for the '18 Cabernet Sauvignon "The Ranch" any day now; and the '18 Brothers and Los Ricos Cabernets in the fall.
2020 was a challenge, but against all odds, we’re coming come out with some lovely wines.
They’re reminiscent of the ‘17s – approachable and balanced at a younger point than, say the ‘15s were or the ‘18s will be.
We dodged loss from fire or smoke ... mostly. It helped a lot that as traditionalists, we harvest a little earlier. When the Glass Fire broke out at the end of September, the Petit Verdot was all we had left on the vine. The fire burned in our direction for several days before stopping less than mile away. It was our first experience with smoke coming directly off an active fire. The grapes tasted fine, but sugar tends to mask smokiness. We decided lay the fruit on the ground to compost and go around until the next vintage.
This winter the vineyards got more than no rain – but we’re on track for a little less than half normal. And for the first time in our memory, we didn’t get a single storm with enough rain to be sure we hit total field saturation. This will require extremely careful farming until next winter.
Fortunately, there was enough rain at precisely the right moments for the invigorating cover crop to thrive. We’ll mow and lightly cultivate to incorporate the legume-heavy cover crop (and the pruned canes from winter) into the soil to fix natural nitrogen, sequester carbon, and strengthen the structure of the soil and the subterranean ecosystem it supports. And make better wines.
How to celebrate a holiday in these unusual times? The holidays are actually well underway, so there's inspiration to be had – Joann’s friends Mary E. Carter and Gary W. Priester live in Placitas, New Mexico – reaching deep into their cellar for a Snowden, they shared this –
This was our table setting for our festive Erev Rosh Hashanah dinner. This is the Jewish holiday in celebration of a new year. Usually it is celebrated with a room full of friends and much laughter and hugging and happy shouts of, “Shana Tova.”
This year, 2020, it was just Gary and me, sheltering here at home during the pandemic. We were just about to sit down to our wonderful meal of brisket with all the trimmings, plus kreplach, salmon gefilte fish, chopped liver, and a lovely apple and honey cake and, of course, Snowden 2016 The Brothers Vineyard Cabernet. All of a sudden, my cellphone lit up. Sadly, it was the news about Ruth Bader Ginsburg.
That evening we raised our wine glasses, with deep sadness for her loss. In the Jewish tradition, it is said that the wisest souls leave us at the dawning of the new year. To Ruth Bader Ginsburg, may her memory be for a blessing.
We're overdue on a harvest report, but events have intervened. Our heartfelt thanks to all of you who have reached out. So far, the ranch has been spared by the Glass Fire, just to the north, and the winery where we ferment and barrel age our wines has been spared by the Boysen and Shady Fires, which were on the doorstep. Tonight should tell -- if the flag is still there at dawn's early light, we have a good chance of living to farm another day. Stay tuned.
Thanks to everyone who’s reached out to see how we’re doing in the midst of this new year of wildfires. We’re okay … so far. The Hennessy fire broke out two miles east of the ranch, but the prevailing breeze for the four days since then has been from the northwest, heading southeast – which has pushed the fire and its smoke steadily away from us … so far, in both the chronological and geographic senses. The winds could shift and bring the fire to us. And so far the fire has traveled 20 miles, to the peril of the cities of Fairfield and Vacaville. No one can be at peace if their good fortune means other people and a vast amount of wildlife and woodlands are being devastated. And, as to that good fortune … so far.
If you’d like to help, please consider the disaster relief fund at the Napa Valley Community Foundation.
Until four days ago, this has been a lovely, smooth growing year. The last four days were really hot, but not as hot as in 2017. Now that temperatures are returning to normal, we can say, the fruit and the vines appear to be sound and healthy.
We’re hoping our first picks from the 2020 vintage will start around 4 tomorrow morning – the one acre of Sauvignon Blanc, plus a little bit of Merlot for a dry rosé.
We’ll do our best to post as the harvest progresses. In the meantime, the photo, taken this past Tuesday morning, is from a vineyard we call either the Lower Vineyard or the Pool Block, depending on which side of the bed we’ve gotten out of.
Ranch Manager Severiano Deloera has been farming this year with a small, full-time team of five experienced and skilled vinyardists. At the risk of inviting some new catastrophe, I’ll go ahead and say – the vineyards have never looked better. The team been able to stay ahead as the growing season has progressed. Right now they’re putting the last touches on the canopies before veraison arrives. Then they’ll visit each vine to check the crop, remove clusters that aren't ripening on schedule, and anything else they don’t like the looks of.
Our thanks to everyone who has been checking in as the very peculiar larger situation unfolds. Ironically, we had spent about a year getting the permits to open a private tasting room on the second floor of a historic building on Main Street in St. Helena. We were all set to invite our mailing list and club members to begin scheduling visits, but our planned “go live” date turned out to fall in the first week of the Napa County “shelter in place” order. Although the order was eased a few weeks ago to allow tasting rooms to reopen, we took the conservative “wait and see” path – and are happy to have done so, as the County has once again prohibited inside tasting.
So, until we can offer safe and legal tastings, you’ll just have to trust us – our wines are all simply amazing and delicious.
We wanted to share this quick "home movie" tour of the ranch, which includes winemaker Diana Seysses' explanation of how she brings it through to the glass. We're all looking forward to the day when we can once again walk the vineyards with our members and friends and share our wines together.